The Land Below the Wind

KOTA KINABALU. If, while in my fetid pile of misery in that festering city of Medan I had tried to imagine what paradise was like, it might have been something like this. In fewer words: I am in paradise. This city is in Malaysia, located right on your desktop entitled "Google Earth" if I'm not mistaken. Just kidding... That was perhaps needlessly belligerent! KK as it's affectionately known is the capital of Sabah, the eastern Malaysian state on the island of Borneo. It's an old colonial capital nestled between the South China Sea (beautiful) and the mountains, of which Mt. Kinabalu is the most prominent (beautiful [adjectives aren't my strong suit...]).

It's called the land below the wind because this is probably the only place by the sea in the world where there is simply no wind to be had, and considering how close we are the the equator, it's probably the only place in the world that desperately needs wind. But it's ok, really, because unlike the rest of southeast Asia, this place comes standard with AC. Much like Penang, KK is about food. I have now been here for just over 24 hours and I have already had my top 1 and 2 lamb experiences, the best chicken I've ever had and two of the best coffees. And while I write this, I'm looking out over the city from my lofty perch on the 12th floor of the highest building in KK.

I owe all of this to the fantastic patronage of Mr. Ronny Cham, the father of a dear friend from high school days. Mr. Cham, it turns out, knows all 800,000 residents of KK. At least the ones worth knowing. He went to school with the Governor of Sabah, is related to someone in every industry from pastries, to corn fed chickens, semi-legal lottery to (most importantly) travel organizers. This last one was particularly helpful when we found out that Mt. Kinabalu can only be climbed if booked MONTHS in advance. We tried three weeks in advance, were told that everything was booked and gave up. We mentioned this in passing to Mr. Cham and, within 30 minutes, we were booked for the next days hike. I don't want to reveal my methods, but the Minister of Tourism and the Chief of Sabah National Parks may or may not have been involved...

Anyway, I know this is all a bit disjointed, but I'm still in raptures at the kindness being shown to myself and Nathan. So more later about the city and the cultural stuff, I promise!

And if all else fails, just come to KK and see for yourself.